Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Thoughts on brutality

(Hello, English-speaking friends and strangers. The following entry ended up being in Norwegian, but the others will still be in English.)

Kambodsja er et land med en veldig blodig historie. På slutten av 70-tallet styrte Khmer Rouge og Pol Pot, og millioner av mennesker døde. Mange døde av grusom mishandling og tortur, andre ble raskt henrettet og slengt i massegraver. Man kan ikke unngå å lære om de mange triste skjebnene og ødelagte familiene når man bor der, det er en viktig del av folkets identitet og hva de viser fram til utlendinger. Historier som får en til å tenke og stille seg selv mange spørsmål om menneskesinnet, og de ekstreme handlingene vi er i stand til å utføre.

Hvordan kan man mishandle et menneske til døde, en person du aldri har møtt, bare fordi direktivet sier du skal? Er det ikke vanskelig å gjøre det? Noen historier fra fengslene forteller at vaktene først kunne banke opp en mann, og så gå leende ut av rommet. Som om det hadde vært en lek, som om det ikke var et menneske de hadde slått. Vi består jo av de samme byggestenenene, samme hjerte og samme hjerne, hvordan kommer man til dette punktet?

En uke etter at jeg hadde flyttet hjem til trygge lille Norge, kom 22. juli. Igjen satt jeg med disse spørsmålene i hodet, ikke om kambodsjanere for 30 år siden, men dessverre om min egen virkelighet og hverdag. Først bomben, som ansiktsløst og relativt tilfeldig tok liv. Så skytingen, hvor gjerningsmannen har sett mennesker i øynene, noen så unge som 14 år, og fortsatt klart å ta livene deres fra dem. Alt de hadde.

En halvtime etter at bomben sprengte, satt jeg hos en venn og så på TV. Jeg hadde en kjempeknute i magen, og tenkte at nå, nå går landet mitt i stykker. Nå tipper det over. Debattklimaet rundt alle temaer som på noe vis kan involvere innvandring eller muslimer, hadde vært utrolig dårlig i forkant. En ting har vært hva politikerne sier, en annen ting har vært hva internett-folket har sagt, i kommentarfelt, Facebook-grupper og blogger. Noen kan brette ut en hel ideologi om hvordan muslimer og mørkhudede menn er roten til alt ondt, andre kommer bare med sine små, aggressive kommentarer.

Her forleden så jeg på et Typisk Norsk-klipp på Youtube, nemlig det hvor Petter Skjerven drar til Holmlia skole for å snakke med elevene om kebab-norsk. En gutt oversetter setningen "Sjof den schpaa kæba der'a, wolla jeg skal blæste hun!" til "Se på den vakre kvinnen der, jaggu skal jeg ligge med henne!" Innslaget er artig og interessant, som de fleste andre i Typisk Norsk-serien.

Etter klippet følger en lang kommentar-tråd. Jeg føler at jeg har lest min andel rasistiske innlegg av denne typen, men jeg reagerte likevel på hvor ekstreme disse var. "Skyt dem alle" er det noen som sier, og flere følger på. (Både før og etter 22. juli.) Om en gruppe 15-åringer med minoritetsbakgrunn. Kanskje er det én person som tør å si det, også følger de andre på når tabuet er brutt. Inspirert av den tøffeste kisen i klassen som turte å si det først.

Jeg sitter igjen og lurer på hva som går gjennom hodene på disse folka. Er de rett og slett veldig unge, 14 år gamle og synes det er gøy å si drøye og provoserende ting? Er de forbanna når de sitter og skriver dette, krever det noe av dem, har de i det minste litt høy puls? Eller slenger de ut kommentaren som om de skyter ned en motstander i et dataspill? Jeg tror de aller fleste som står ansikt til ansikt med et annet menneske og opplever at de blir såret av noe de sier, kommer til å kjenne det ett eller annet sted. De aller fleste har denne evnen til empati, men det virker som den blir skrudd av i den anonyme internett-settingen.

Læreren Håvard Tjora hadde et viktig innlegg om nett-mobbing i Magasinet 17. september. 45 000 barn i Norge sier at de har blitt mobbet på internett, skriver han. 70 000 barn har fått uønskede seksuelle kommentarer på nett, og 30 000 har fått trusler på SMS. 74 % av dem forteller det aldri til en voksen. Han peker på at voksne er dårlige forbilder for barn og unge når det gjelder hvordan man prater med hverandre og kommenterer saker. “Når de unge serveres søppel, så er det søppel som reproduseres”, sier han.

I dag ser jeg også i Klassekampen at Kristian Bjørkdahl, min veldig flinke foreleser fra Miljø og Utvikling på Blindern, snakker om hvordan vi oppfører oss på internett: "Med sosiologiens metoder kan medieviterne finne ut av hvilker omgangsformer som oppstår rundt nettet. Er det virkelig slik, som man har hørt nå i noen tiår, at de nye mediene skaper kontakt mellom mennesker på helt ulike steder i verden? Hva slags bånd knyttes egentlig på nettet? Med utgangspunkt i psykologien kan medieforskere forsøke å finne ut av hva det betyr, om noe, at vi snakker med hverandre via maskiner og ikke ansikt til ansikt."

Mange strømninger i tiden, som jeg prøver å samle i hodet mitt. Tankene mine går ofte tilbake til youtube-kommentarene. Jeg lurer på hvordan det må være å være ung og ha innvandrerbakgrunn, sitte og se på Typisk Norsk og kose seg, og så se disse meningene. Krassere ting enn de fleste av oss noensinne kommer til å få høre. Jeg håper inderlig at de klarer å si til seg selv at det ikke er dem det er noe galt med.

Rett etter at bomben sprengte, var det flere mørkhudede mennesker som ble trakassert i Oslo. To menn ble angrepet da de satt på en pub, og noen hijabkledde jenter fikk skjellsord slengt etter seg på gaten. Det ble tvitret at en ung norskpakistansk gutt ble dratt ut av en buss og banket opp av to voksne mennesker. Man kan jo bare forestille seg hvor skremt han sikkert allerede var etter bomben som hadde sprengt, og så skal han i tillegg oppleve dette. Det gjør vondt å sette seg inn i. Mon tro hva foreldrene hans følte, hvilke trøstende ord de kunne komme med den kvelden. Hendelsen virket som noe tatt ut av en film om sørstatene i USA på 60-tallet, en sånn man var nødt til å se på ungdomsskolen for å lære om hvor tøft det var før i tida.

Da det første sjokket hadde lagt seg, var det tross alt fint å se hvordan Norge svarte med rosetog og kjærlighetserklæringer på angrepet. Jeg er glad for at gjerningens natur samlet oss som et folk, og håper det oppsto en effekt som kan vare lenge. Men jeg håper ikke moralen er at jaja, det var ikke en muslim, da skal vi ikke lynsje mørkhudede folk på gata likevel. De slapp så vidt unna.

Mye klokt har blitt sagt om dette. I Morgenbladet skriver Sten Inge Jørgensen i Et moderat fremmedfiendtlig folk: "At flere innvandrere ble trakassert rett etter terrorangrepet 22. juli, tyder på at mange nordmenn oppriktig mener at folk med utenlandsk bakgrunn lever her «på vår nåde»."

I artikkelen Et dobbeltangrep på muslimer sier Attiq Sohail: "Det har flere ganger blitt påpekt i mediene at tryggheten ikke vil bli den samme for politikerne. Men hva med tryggheten til alle norske muslimer? Bomben, som ble plassert i regjeringskvartalet denne gangen, kan neste gang være plassert i en moské. Forhåpentligvis vil debattklimaet bli bedre med mindre spissformulerte og hatefulle innlegg enn det vi har blitt vant til."

Grunnen til at kambodsjanere under Khmer Rouge-regimet kunne behandle sine medmennesker som de gjorde, er vel at de ikke så på dem som dét. Ikke medmennesker, kanskje ikke mennesker engang, men statsfiender. Antirevolusjonære, forrædere, skadedyr. Ikke folk som kunne være deres sønner, mødre eller onkler, men noe helt annet. De andre. Det er skummelt å sette noen i en sånn bås, enten det er fordi de er muslimer, jøder, rumenere, homofile, funksjonshemmede eller narkomane. I beste fall fører det bare til at du går glipp av lærerike bekjentskap, i verste fall kan det få grusomme konsekvenser. Enorme konsekvenser, og ikke bare i land og tiår langt unna vårt eget.

Jeg lurer på hva vi bør gjøre. Det har dukket opp veldig mange fine facebook-grupper og lignende, av typen Jeg skal si ifra, som er Kristin Halvorsens kampanje for å argumentere imot rasister på nett. 7600 likes. Men jeg har kanskje enda mer tro på tids- og ressurskrevende ting som prosjektet Teatime hvor du kan besøke en muslimsk familie og drikke te med dem. Godt gammeldags samvær, det krever mer enn et klikk på en lenke, man må sette av en ettermiddag. Lure på hva man skal ha på seg, være litt nervøs når man ringer på, se noen inn i øynene. Besøk In Real Life. Audun Lysbakken bevilget i september 700 000 kr til Antirasistisk Senter for å drive Teatime-prosjektet, det var gode nyheter.

Folk med forutinntatte meninger kommer selvfølgelig ikke til å melde seg på Teatime. Da bør fjellet heller komme til Mohammed, for å bruke en lite tilfeldig metafor, dette må inn i skolen. Lag dokumentarer om unge som har blitt mobbet på internett, eller rekruttér modige folk til å dra rundt for å dele personlige erfaringer. Som Håvard Tjora påpeker, det er ikke bare innvandrere som er alvorlig plaget av mobbing på nett. Jeg har et håp om at vi kan finne fram til en ny anstendighet og en ny medmenneskelighet. Jeg tror vi trenger den sårt.

Monday, November 7, 2011

The flood continues

The flooding in South East Asia continues, and the focus in the Norwegian media has mostly been on Bangkok. But the conditions are very serious in Cambodia as well, The Phnom Penh Post reports that as many as 1,7 million people are affected by the flash floods, and 500 000 people are displaced. They also report that the Danish government has given $110 000 to help the victims, I don't know if the Norwegian governments has helped financially. Unlike Denmark, Norway doesn't have an embassy in Cambodia, so I suppose they're not as close to the events as the countries who are represented there.



Boy carrying his brother across a makeshift sandbag trail in Cambodia. (Photo from this interesting article)



Rice field in Battambang province


The photo above is from the New York Times. They write that "The floods that have affected three-quarters of the country's land area, by the United Nations' estimate, have been overshadowed by similar troubles in Cambodia's larger and wealthier neighbor, Thailand, where the government is scrambling to protect central Bangkok from inundation (...)". Three days ago the World Food Program stated that "10 percent of the rice crops have been destroyed and 265,000 hectares of rice fields have been damaged, raising the price of rice by 12 percent". This is very serious in a country where hunger and malnutrition is already such a big problem.

What the Norwegian media did report yesterday was that the scientific conclusions from the new IPCC report (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) has been leaked to the press. The report in itself will be released after a conference in Uganda 14 - 18 November. The report apparently concludes that climate change indeed leads to more extreme weather. We will most likely get more and longer heat waves in the decades to come, and probably see more extreme rain (like the unusually strong monsoons we see in South East Asia at the moment). Tropical storms could get more powerful.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

About the genocide

The past weeks Ingrid and I have held presentations at schools and NGOs about our stay in Cambodia. It has been an educational process to make these 45 minute long accounts of our expreriences. What do I remember, what seems distant already, what is it that I want to tell these people about the country I've spent half a year in. The kids in high school are at the age of 16-18 years old, so I try to ask myself what I would have found interesting at this age. I actually think it would have seemed very interesting and exciting for me at 16 to go and do something like we have done.

The people have usually been pretty quiet after our presentations, maybe a few questions, no big discussions or anything like that. After the last talk we had, a German came up to us and wanted to know a bit more about the genocide during the Khmer Rouge regime. We have a relatively brief summary of the historical and gruesome events during those years, but we don't go in debth on how this affects the society today. He himself said that it took Germans about 25 years to be able to talk about and discuss the Holocaust  thoroughly (or maybe everything regarding the Second World War).

He had also spent some time in Ukraine, and there he felt that there was a lot of tension surrounding the topic of the Chernobyl disaster in 1986. There was a huge explosion at a nuclear power plant, spreading radio active particles over large parts of Europe (a Greenpeace report estimates that as many as 200 000 people may die of cancer as a result of this). Many Ukrainians he met avoided the sensitive subject altogether, some were able to talk vaguely about it.

One of my Cambodian friends said that it wasn't until he spent some time abroad, that he really got to know what happened during the reign of Khmer Rouge. In school he had learnt that there was a genocide, it was bad, but now it was in the past. When he tried asking his parents about it, they refused to talk about it. Other young people I met, said that their parents on the contrary thought it was important that the new generation Cambodians also carry with them the memories of the persecution and injustice.

In Phnom Penh the most common tourist sights to visit are the S21 prison, where an unknown number of prisoners were tortured and killed, and the Choeung Ek killings fields. There are many "killing fields" in Cambodia, where mass executions took place, and the bodies were put in mass graves afterwards. The Choeung Ek is the most famous one, and it is a very calm place surrounded by trees a little trip outside the capital. Unlike the S21, Choeung Ek is a less intrusive place to visit, you can walk around at your own pace and read the information signs when you want to... It gives the occasion to reflect upon the violence and the tragedy without having the horrible photos and blood splatter on the walls that you see in S21.



The memorial building at the very calm Choeung Ek killings fields.




You remove your shoes in respect to the spirits in the memorial building. (I trust that the spirits didn't see my mismatching socks as offensive.)




Memories of the mass killings. The skulls are displayed to remember the many victims in the mass graves.

I would also strongly recommend to visit the S21 prison, or Tuol Sleng as it is called in Khmer, just braise yourself before you go. You can also get very good guides when you get there, who can often tell about personal experiences from the regime. Some Cambodians don't want to go into the prison, because they believe there are evil spirits there. Remember to treat the subject of the genocide with respect, it can be highly sensitive for some people.

I read a lot about the genocide that took place in Rwanda, after seing the powerful movie "Hotel Rwanda".



 The two ethnic groups hutu and tutsi had for a long time had tensions and conflicts between them, and in 1994 hutu groups started the mass murder of both tutsies and moderate hutus. The government now states that about 1,1 million people were killed, and that possibly as many as 500 000 women and girls were systematically raped.

A friend of mine was in Rwanda a few years ago, and noticed how there was still tension between the two ethnic groups. One day she was with a Rwandese friend, and she looked at the people in the street. She asked the friend if it was possible to see who was hutu and who was tutsi. Of course, he said, "the tutsies are in cars or on scooters. The hutus walk."

Cambodia is a relatively homogenous society ethnically, so you don't have the same situation where one specific ethnic group is the perpetrator (even though the Cham muslims and the Chinese were especially persecuted during the regime). A good friend of mine told me that even though Cambodia has many problems, he is proud of how well it's going considering how recent the genocide is.

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Working conditions in Cambodian factories

A few days ago the Norwegian media reported that 236 workers passed out at an H&M factory in Cambodia. Hennes & Mauritz is a Swedish retail-clothing company with stores all over the world, and the majority of its products are made in Asia. The mass fainting was the third time in four months that similar events have happened in factories that produce their clothing. An H&M spokesperson says that they do care about the garment workers, but that there has not been found any reason for the mass faintings in any of the factories.


Women getting medical attention after passing out at work. (Photo from NRK)


H&M made a profit of about 500 million dollars from the past three months alone, while the Cambodian garment workers get a meager $60 per month. The textile industry is now the country's biggest income source, and it employs 400 000 people. Workers from factories all over Cambodia have arranged protest rallies to object to their poor working conditions.


Textile workers protesting against bad working conditions in September 2010. During this rally, 5 workers were killed after clashing with the police. (Photo from NRK)



In September BBC reported that 1500 workers had fainted so far this year in different factories in Cambodia. It is an ongoing debate how much responsibility Norwegian companies should take regarding the working conditions in factories around the world. Telenor, a Norwegian company and one of the largest mobile phone operators in the world, got a lot of critisism after the death of a factory worker in Bangladesh in 2008. The 22 year old employee fell into a tank of boling water, and died. His family, who had lost their only bread winner, got about $3000 as a compensation for their son and brother. In return they had to sign a waver saying that they wouldn't sue Telenor.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Kep

One week before leaving Cambodia, I went to on a road trip to Kep with four very nice people. I was happy Joanna was going to drive the car, until she turned the key in the engine. I was fooled by her mild manners and calm exterior, it turned out she releases all her inner frustrations by speeding on dirt roads and scaring fragile friends in the back seat. We almost hit an elephant on our way to Kep, it was just taddling along on the road, but it fortunately went well. A lucky boy was riding it home. On our way we stopped at a nice place to explore some caves.


The outside of the caves




Laska and I in a cave. Finally my $1 flashlight came in handy!


Kep was a very calm, very green place. There weren't a lot of tourists there, not a lot of people at all, so it felt a bit magic to be walking around there all by ourselves. We lived at Tree Top Bungalows, which was really pretty. There were some large, scary looking lizards there, I was a bit nervous they would come nibble on me at night, but I don't think they did. Maybe they didn't consider me nibble-worthy, I'm not sure.




The bungalows!




The view. Life was good.




The beautiful surroundings brought out the poet in Laska.




I had a tiny bit of food poisoning the first day, so I wasn't feeling so fresh the next day at breakfast. (But come to think of it, only having it once during 5 months isn't too bad, I thought it might be more!) I was trying to eat an omelett, but I didn't have much apetite.

The sweet people working there got worried about me, and asked if there was anything else I wanted. When I asked if they had anything simple, like some fruit, they gave me a whole bunch of bananas and refused to take any money for them. I was touched! The others were going to Rabbit Island by boat, and I decided to go with them, even though I wasn't feeling too good. Then the hotel owner gave me a lift all the way down to the main road on his scooter, so that I didn't have to walk all the way. When I came down I thanked him profoundly in bad Khmer, I think he understood.

I sat down on a bench to wait for the others who walked down, next to me there was a guy selling durian fruit from a cart. He smiled at me, and I smiled back. It was very warm and quiet, I could just hear the wind rustling through the trees. I could smell a hint of the ocean in the air. It struck me that in a week, I would leave all this. I would return to my home, which was very dear to me, but so very different from all I could see from this bench I was sitting on. I teared up, and felt such a strong gratitude towards these wonderful people, this street, this sleepy little town. It was the perfect place to visit my last week in the country. The others came down, and we found a tuk-tuk.




Me in a tuk-tuk, smiling, not vomiting. Joanna The Crazy Driver in the middle and Laska The Cutie on the left. Joanna's arm is always like that, I really should ask her why some day.



Me on a boat, slightly nauseous, but still not vomiting. Nice boat man in the background, beautiful ocean below!



Ingrid and I enjoying a lovely evening




The sun setting!




Laska and Dar enjoying the ride (and eachother? Grrr)




Who needs lights, when you have good friends and a case of Angkor beer?