Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Thoughts on brutality

(Hello, English-speaking friends and strangers. The following entry ended up being in Norwegian, but the others will still be in English.)

Kambodsja er et land med en veldig blodig historie. På slutten av 70-tallet styrte Khmer Rouge og Pol Pot, og millioner av mennesker døde. Mange døde av grusom mishandling og tortur, andre ble raskt henrettet og slengt i massegraver. Man kan ikke unngå å lære om de mange triste skjebnene og ødelagte familiene når man bor der, det er en viktig del av folkets identitet og hva de viser fram til utlendinger. Historier som får en til å tenke og stille seg selv mange spørsmål om menneskesinnet, og de ekstreme handlingene vi er i stand til å utføre.

Hvordan kan man mishandle et menneske til døde, en person du aldri har møtt, bare fordi direktivet sier du skal? Er det ikke vanskelig å gjøre det? Noen historier fra fengslene forteller at vaktene først kunne banke opp en mann, og så gå leende ut av rommet. Som om det hadde vært en lek, som om det ikke var et menneske de hadde slått. Vi består jo av de samme byggestenenene, samme hjerte og samme hjerne, hvordan kommer man til dette punktet?

En uke etter at jeg hadde flyttet hjem til trygge lille Norge, kom 22. juli. Igjen satt jeg med disse spørsmålene i hodet, ikke om kambodsjanere for 30 år siden, men dessverre om min egen virkelighet og hverdag. Først bomben, som ansiktsløst og relativt tilfeldig tok liv. Så skytingen, hvor gjerningsmannen har sett mennesker i øynene, noen så unge som 14 år, og fortsatt klart å ta livene deres fra dem. Alt de hadde.

En halvtime etter at bomben sprengte, satt jeg hos en venn og så på TV. Jeg hadde en kjempeknute i magen, og tenkte at nå, nå går landet mitt i stykker. Nå tipper det over. Debattklimaet rundt alle temaer som på noe vis kan involvere innvandring eller muslimer, hadde vært utrolig dårlig i forkant. En ting har vært hva politikerne sier, en annen ting har vært hva internett-folket har sagt, i kommentarfelt, Facebook-grupper og blogger. Noen kan brette ut en hel ideologi om hvordan muslimer og mørkhudede menn er roten til alt ondt, andre kommer bare med sine små, aggressive kommentarer.

Her forleden så jeg på et Typisk Norsk-klipp på Youtube, nemlig det hvor Petter Skjerven drar til Holmlia skole for å snakke med elevene om kebab-norsk. En gutt oversetter setningen "Sjof den schpaa kæba der'a, wolla jeg skal blæste hun!" til "Se på den vakre kvinnen der, jaggu skal jeg ligge med henne!" Innslaget er artig og interessant, som de fleste andre i Typisk Norsk-serien.

Etter klippet følger en lang kommentar-tråd. Jeg føler at jeg har lest min andel rasistiske innlegg av denne typen, men jeg reagerte likevel på hvor ekstreme disse var. "Skyt dem alle" er det noen som sier, og flere følger på. (Både før og etter 22. juli.) Om en gruppe 15-åringer med minoritetsbakgrunn. Kanskje er det én person som tør å si det, også følger de andre på når tabuet er brutt. Inspirert av den tøffeste kisen i klassen som turte å si det først.

Jeg sitter igjen og lurer på hva som går gjennom hodene på disse folka. Er de rett og slett veldig unge, 14 år gamle og synes det er gøy å si drøye og provoserende ting? Er de forbanna når de sitter og skriver dette, krever det noe av dem, har de i det minste litt høy puls? Eller slenger de ut kommentaren som om de skyter ned en motstander i et dataspill? Jeg tror de aller fleste som står ansikt til ansikt med et annet menneske og opplever at de blir såret av noe de sier, kommer til å kjenne det ett eller annet sted. De aller fleste har denne evnen til empati, men det virker som den blir skrudd av i den anonyme internett-settingen.

Læreren Håvard Tjora hadde et viktig innlegg om nett-mobbing i Magasinet 17. september. 45 000 barn i Norge sier at de har blitt mobbet på internett, skriver han. 70 000 barn har fått uønskede seksuelle kommentarer på nett, og 30 000 har fått trusler på SMS. 74 % av dem forteller det aldri til en voksen. Han peker på at voksne er dårlige forbilder for barn og unge når det gjelder hvordan man prater med hverandre og kommenterer saker. “Når de unge serveres søppel, så er det søppel som reproduseres”, sier han.

I dag ser jeg også i Klassekampen at Kristian Bjørkdahl, min veldig flinke foreleser fra Miljø og Utvikling på Blindern, snakker om hvordan vi oppfører oss på internett: "Med sosiologiens metoder kan medieviterne finne ut av hvilker omgangsformer som oppstår rundt nettet. Er det virkelig slik, som man har hørt nå i noen tiår, at de nye mediene skaper kontakt mellom mennesker på helt ulike steder i verden? Hva slags bånd knyttes egentlig på nettet? Med utgangspunkt i psykologien kan medieforskere forsøke å finne ut av hva det betyr, om noe, at vi snakker med hverandre via maskiner og ikke ansikt til ansikt."

Mange strømninger i tiden, som jeg prøver å samle i hodet mitt. Tankene mine går ofte tilbake til youtube-kommentarene. Jeg lurer på hvordan det må være å være ung og ha innvandrerbakgrunn, sitte og se på Typisk Norsk og kose seg, og så se disse meningene. Krassere ting enn de fleste av oss noensinne kommer til å få høre. Jeg håper inderlig at de klarer å si til seg selv at det ikke er dem det er noe galt med.

Rett etter at bomben sprengte, var det flere mørkhudede mennesker som ble trakassert i Oslo. To menn ble angrepet da de satt på en pub, og noen hijabkledde jenter fikk skjellsord slengt etter seg på gaten. Det ble tvitret at en ung norskpakistansk gutt ble dratt ut av en buss og banket opp av to voksne mennesker. Man kan jo bare forestille seg hvor skremt han sikkert allerede var etter bomben som hadde sprengt, og så skal han i tillegg oppleve dette. Det gjør vondt å sette seg inn i. Mon tro hva foreldrene hans følte, hvilke trøstende ord de kunne komme med den kvelden. Hendelsen virket som noe tatt ut av en film om sørstatene i USA på 60-tallet, en sånn man var nødt til å se på ungdomsskolen for å lære om hvor tøft det var før i tida.

Da det første sjokket hadde lagt seg, var det tross alt fint å se hvordan Norge svarte med rosetog og kjærlighetserklæringer på angrepet. Jeg er glad for at gjerningens natur samlet oss som et folk, og håper det oppsto en effekt som kan vare lenge. Men jeg håper ikke moralen er at jaja, det var ikke en muslim, da skal vi ikke lynsje mørkhudede folk på gata likevel. De slapp så vidt unna.

Mye klokt har blitt sagt om dette. I Morgenbladet skriver Sten Inge Jørgensen i Et moderat fremmedfiendtlig folk: "At flere innvandrere ble trakassert rett etter terrorangrepet 22. juli, tyder på at mange nordmenn oppriktig mener at folk med utenlandsk bakgrunn lever her «på vår nåde»."

I artikkelen Et dobbeltangrep på muslimer sier Attiq Sohail: "Det har flere ganger blitt påpekt i mediene at tryggheten ikke vil bli den samme for politikerne. Men hva med tryggheten til alle norske muslimer? Bomben, som ble plassert i regjeringskvartalet denne gangen, kan neste gang være plassert i en moské. Forhåpentligvis vil debattklimaet bli bedre med mindre spissformulerte og hatefulle innlegg enn det vi har blitt vant til."

Grunnen til at kambodsjanere under Khmer Rouge-regimet kunne behandle sine medmennesker som de gjorde, er vel at de ikke så på dem som dét. Ikke medmennesker, kanskje ikke mennesker engang, men statsfiender. Antirevolusjonære, forrædere, skadedyr. Ikke folk som kunne være deres sønner, mødre eller onkler, men noe helt annet. De andre. Det er skummelt å sette noen i en sånn bås, enten det er fordi de er muslimer, jøder, rumenere, homofile, funksjonshemmede eller narkomane. I beste fall fører det bare til at du går glipp av lærerike bekjentskap, i verste fall kan det få grusomme konsekvenser. Enorme konsekvenser, og ikke bare i land og tiår langt unna vårt eget.

Jeg lurer på hva vi bør gjøre. Det har dukket opp veldig mange fine facebook-grupper og lignende, av typen Jeg skal si ifra, som er Kristin Halvorsens kampanje for å argumentere imot rasister på nett. 7600 likes. Men jeg har kanskje enda mer tro på tids- og ressurskrevende ting som prosjektet Teatime hvor du kan besøke en muslimsk familie og drikke te med dem. Godt gammeldags samvær, det krever mer enn et klikk på en lenke, man må sette av en ettermiddag. Lure på hva man skal ha på seg, være litt nervøs når man ringer på, se noen inn i øynene. Besøk In Real Life. Audun Lysbakken bevilget i september 700 000 kr til Antirasistisk Senter for å drive Teatime-prosjektet, det var gode nyheter.

Folk med forutinntatte meninger kommer selvfølgelig ikke til å melde seg på Teatime. Da bør fjellet heller komme til Mohammed, for å bruke en lite tilfeldig metafor, dette må inn i skolen. Lag dokumentarer om unge som har blitt mobbet på internett, eller rekruttér modige folk til å dra rundt for å dele personlige erfaringer. Som Håvard Tjora påpeker, det er ikke bare innvandrere som er alvorlig plaget av mobbing på nett. Jeg har et håp om at vi kan finne fram til en ny anstendighet og en ny medmenneskelighet. Jeg tror vi trenger den sårt.

Monday, November 7, 2011

The flood continues

The flooding in South East Asia continues, and the focus in the Norwegian media has mostly been on Bangkok. But the conditions are very serious in Cambodia as well, The Phnom Penh Post reports that as many as 1,7 million people are affected by the flash floods, and 500 000 people are displaced. They also report that the Danish government has given $110 000 to help the victims, I don't know if the Norwegian governments has helped financially. Unlike Denmark, Norway doesn't have an embassy in Cambodia, so I suppose they're not as close to the events as the countries who are represented there.



Boy carrying his brother across a makeshift sandbag trail in Cambodia. (Photo from this interesting article)



Rice field in Battambang province


The photo above is from the New York Times. They write that "The floods that have affected three-quarters of the country's land area, by the United Nations' estimate, have been overshadowed by similar troubles in Cambodia's larger and wealthier neighbor, Thailand, where the government is scrambling to protect central Bangkok from inundation (...)". Three days ago the World Food Program stated that "10 percent of the rice crops have been destroyed and 265,000 hectares of rice fields have been damaged, raising the price of rice by 12 percent". This is very serious in a country where hunger and malnutrition is already such a big problem.

What the Norwegian media did report yesterday was that the scientific conclusions from the new IPCC report (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) has been leaked to the press. The report in itself will be released after a conference in Uganda 14 - 18 November. The report apparently concludes that climate change indeed leads to more extreme weather. We will most likely get more and longer heat waves in the decades to come, and probably see more extreme rain (like the unusually strong monsoons we see in South East Asia at the moment). Tropical storms could get more powerful.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

About the genocide

The past weeks Ingrid and I have held presentations at schools and NGOs about our stay in Cambodia. It has been an educational process to make these 45 minute long accounts of our expreriences. What do I remember, what seems distant already, what is it that I want to tell these people about the country I've spent half a year in. The kids in high school are at the age of 16-18 years old, so I try to ask myself what I would have found interesting at this age. I actually think it would have seemed very interesting and exciting for me at 16 to go and do something like we have done.

The people have usually been pretty quiet after our presentations, maybe a few questions, no big discussions or anything like that. After the last talk we had, a German came up to us and wanted to know a bit more about the genocide during the Khmer Rouge regime. We have a relatively brief summary of the historical and gruesome events during those years, but we don't go in debth on how this affects the society today. He himself said that it took Germans about 25 years to be able to talk about and discuss the Holocaust  thoroughly (or maybe everything regarding the Second World War).

He had also spent some time in Ukraine, and there he felt that there was a lot of tension surrounding the topic of the Chernobyl disaster in 1986. There was a huge explosion at a nuclear power plant, spreading radio active particles over large parts of Europe (a Greenpeace report estimates that as many as 200 000 people may die of cancer as a result of this). Many Ukrainians he met avoided the sensitive subject altogether, some were able to talk vaguely about it.

One of my Cambodian friends said that it wasn't until he spent some time abroad, that he really got to know what happened during the reign of Khmer Rouge. In school he had learnt that there was a genocide, it was bad, but now it was in the past. When he tried asking his parents about it, they refused to talk about it. Other young people I met, said that their parents on the contrary thought it was important that the new generation Cambodians also carry with them the memories of the persecution and injustice.

In Phnom Penh the most common tourist sights to visit are the S21 prison, where an unknown number of prisoners were tortured and killed, and the Choeung Ek killings fields. There are many "killing fields" in Cambodia, where mass executions took place, and the bodies were put in mass graves afterwards. The Choeung Ek is the most famous one, and it is a very calm place surrounded by trees a little trip outside the capital. Unlike the S21, Choeung Ek is a less intrusive place to visit, you can walk around at your own pace and read the information signs when you want to... It gives the occasion to reflect upon the violence and the tragedy without having the horrible photos and blood splatter on the walls that you see in S21.



The memorial building at the very calm Choeung Ek killings fields.




You remove your shoes in respect to the spirits in the memorial building. (I trust that the spirits didn't see my mismatching socks as offensive.)




Memories of the mass killings. The skulls are displayed to remember the many victims in the mass graves.

I would also strongly recommend to visit the S21 prison, or Tuol Sleng as it is called in Khmer, just braise yourself before you go. You can also get very good guides when you get there, who can often tell about personal experiences from the regime. Some Cambodians don't want to go into the prison, because they believe there are evil spirits there. Remember to treat the subject of the genocide with respect, it can be highly sensitive for some people.

I read a lot about the genocide that took place in Rwanda, after seing the powerful movie "Hotel Rwanda".



 The two ethnic groups hutu and tutsi had for a long time had tensions and conflicts between them, and in 1994 hutu groups started the mass murder of both tutsies and moderate hutus. The government now states that about 1,1 million people were killed, and that possibly as many as 500 000 women and girls were systematically raped.

A friend of mine was in Rwanda a few years ago, and noticed how there was still tension between the two ethnic groups. One day she was with a Rwandese friend, and she looked at the people in the street. She asked the friend if it was possible to see who was hutu and who was tutsi. Of course, he said, "the tutsies are in cars or on scooters. The hutus walk."

Cambodia is a relatively homogenous society ethnically, so you don't have the same situation where one specific ethnic group is the perpetrator (even though the Cham muslims and the Chinese were especially persecuted during the regime). A good friend of mine told me that even though Cambodia has many problems, he is proud of how well it's going considering how recent the genocide is.

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Working conditions in Cambodian factories

A few days ago the Norwegian media reported that 236 workers passed out at an H&M factory in Cambodia. Hennes & Mauritz is a Swedish retail-clothing company with stores all over the world, and the majority of its products are made in Asia. The mass fainting was the third time in four months that similar events have happened in factories that produce their clothing. An H&M spokesperson says that they do care about the garment workers, but that there has not been found any reason for the mass faintings in any of the factories.


Women getting medical attention after passing out at work. (Photo from NRK)


H&M made a profit of about 500 million dollars from the past three months alone, while the Cambodian garment workers get a meager $60 per month. The textile industry is now the country's biggest income source, and it employs 400 000 people. Workers from factories all over Cambodia have arranged protest rallies to object to their poor working conditions.


Textile workers protesting against bad working conditions in September 2010. During this rally, 5 workers were killed after clashing with the police. (Photo from NRK)



In September BBC reported that 1500 workers had fainted so far this year in different factories in Cambodia. It is an ongoing debate how much responsibility Norwegian companies should take regarding the working conditions in factories around the world. Telenor, a Norwegian company and one of the largest mobile phone operators in the world, got a lot of critisism after the death of a factory worker in Bangladesh in 2008. The 22 year old employee fell into a tank of boling water, and died. His family, who had lost their only bread winner, got about $3000 as a compensation for their son and brother. In return they had to sign a waver saying that they wouldn't sue Telenor.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Kep

One week before leaving Cambodia, I went to on a road trip to Kep with four very nice people. I was happy Joanna was going to drive the car, until she turned the key in the engine. I was fooled by her mild manners and calm exterior, it turned out she releases all her inner frustrations by speeding on dirt roads and scaring fragile friends in the back seat. We almost hit an elephant on our way to Kep, it was just taddling along on the road, but it fortunately went well. A lucky boy was riding it home. On our way we stopped at a nice place to explore some caves.


The outside of the caves




Laska and I in a cave. Finally my $1 flashlight came in handy!


Kep was a very calm, very green place. There weren't a lot of tourists there, not a lot of people at all, so it felt a bit magic to be walking around there all by ourselves. We lived at Tree Top Bungalows, which was really pretty. There were some large, scary looking lizards there, I was a bit nervous they would come nibble on me at night, but I don't think they did. Maybe they didn't consider me nibble-worthy, I'm not sure.




The bungalows!




The view. Life was good.




The beautiful surroundings brought out the poet in Laska.




I had a tiny bit of food poisoning the first day, so I wasn't feeling so fresh the next day at breakfast. (But come to think of it, only having it once during 5 months isn't too bad, I thought it might be more!) I was trying to eat an omelett, but I didn't have much apetite.

The sweet people working there got worried about me, and asked if there was anything else I wanted. When I asked if they had anything simple, like some fruit, they gave me a whole bunch of bananas and refused to take any money for them. I was touched! The others were going to Rabbit Island by boat, and I decided to go with them, even though I wasn't feeling too good. Then the hotel owner gave me a lift all the way down to the main road on his scooter, so that I didn't have to walk all the way. When I came down I thanked him profoundly in bad Khmer, I think he understood.

I sat down on a bench to wait for the others who walked down, next to me there was a guy selling durian fruit from a cart. He smiled at me, and I smiled back. It was very warm and quiet, I could just hear the wind rustling through the trees. I could smell a hint of the ocean in the air. It struck me that in a week, I would leave all this. I would return to my home, which was very dear to me, but so very different from all I could see from this bench I was sitting on. I teared up, and felt such a strong gratitude towards these wonderful people, this street, this sleepy little town. It was the perfect place to visit my last week in the country. The others came down, and we found a tuk-tuk.




Me in a tuk-tuk, smiling, not vomiting. Joanna The Crazy Driver in the middle and Laska The Cutie on the left. Joanna's arm is always like that, I really should ask her why some day.



Me on a boat, slightly nauseous, but still not vomiting. Nice boat man in the background, beautiful ocean below!



Ingrid and I enjoying a lovely evening




The sun setting!




Laska and Dar enjoying the ride (and eachother? Grrr)




Who needs lights, when you have good friends and a case of Angkor beer?

Monday, October 31, 2011

Powerful women

In Chinese there is a cool expression: 半边天, or banbiantian. This litterally means "half the sky", but it apparantly refers to a vision Mao Zedong had, that in the ideal society women should hold up half the sky. So 半边天 today refers to succesful women, often those who have important positions in the government or in companies. When I was 16 I got this book:


It has a female super hero on the cover, and the title "Half the sky is ours". It was a book that talked about gender issues, and why it is important to be aware of them. I have always liked this title. In Norway women have all the same legal rights as men, but as this title suggests, there is more to equality than what can be written in law books.

We might be one of the best countries in the world for women to live in, but even here women's income is only 85 % of men's income, and only 1 out of 5 executive managers are women. 2 out of 3 women are employed, but 40 % of these only work part time (the equivalent number for men being 14 %). 50 % of all 15 year old girls think that they weigh too much, when in fact only 16 % are overweight. 120 000 Norwegians have an eating disorder, and 90 % of these are women. (Sources: 1 2 3)

Right now in the Norwegian media, there is a lot of talk regarding assault rape cases in Oslo (this being in parks, alleys etc. by unknown perpetrators). 48 cases has been reported so far this year, this is a doubling of the total number in 2010, and only 7 cases have been solved. Women in Oslo are scared by this fact, and the political opposition accuses the government for not doing enough to fight the problem.

I think the author Emilie Buchwald has said something wise about this phenomenon: "A rape culture is a culture of intimidation. It keeps women afraid of being attacked and so it keeps women confined in the range of their behavior. That fear makes a woman censor her behavior - her speech, her way of dressing, her actions. It undermines her confidence in her ability to be independent. The necessity to be mindful of one's behavior at all times is far more than annoying. Women's lives are unnecessarily constricted. As a society, this one issue hampers the best efforts of half our population. It costs us heavily in lost initiative and in emotional energy stolen from other, more creative thoughts."

In Scandinavia, the problem of assault rape is worst in Norway at the moment. But of course, it is a much bigger problem in many other places in the world. In Cambodia, friends of mine warned me that I as a woman should not walk alone on the street after dark, or even live by myself (women rarely do). The risk of rape was high, they meant, and the newspaper had stories every day about both grown women and small girls being victims of this. I was told there is a superstition that if a man has sex with a virgin, he will get more "male energy" from it, become more of a man. Because of this, very young girls are often targeted. A case that was especially horrifying last year involved a 6 month old baby girl and 4 grown men, she barely survived the internal injuries. This is hard to learn about, but it's all the more important that focus is brought to the problem.
 
Refering to the Chinese expression, there is a movement called Half The Sky, started by the Americans Nicholas Kristof and Sheryl WuDunn. They are journalists and have won a pulitzer price for their coverage of China, WuDunn being the first Asian-American ever to win it. (She also has this very cool TED talk called "Our century's greatest injustice".) They have written the book "Half the sky - How to change the world" (2010), this was recently translated into Norwegian. I came across a review of it in the newspaper Dagsavisen, I was glad the book was given attention also here.




One of the book's many strong stories: 18 year old Bibi Aisha from Afghanistan was abused by the Taliban. Photo from Dagsavisen.

In the book we can read about several people, one of them being the Cambodian girl Srey Rath. When she was 15 she wanted to work in Thailand for two months washing dishes, so she could help her mother financially. The man who had promised her the job then sold her to a brothel in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, where she was transported against her will. When she arrived she first resisted the oppressors, but was then beaten and raped until she obeyed them. She worked as a prostitute for 15 hours per day without getting paid anything, until she and three other girls managed to escape. They went to the police station, but there a police officer arrested them and sold Srey Rath to another brothel in Thailand. She was finally able to escape from here too, and returned to Cambodia and her family. She was helped by an American NGO who worked with victims of trafficking, and she can now make a living by selling things off a cart by the Thai border. As many as 100 000 girls and women are kidnapped and sold to brothels each year, and most aren't as lucky as Srey Rath was.

American author Anne Rice has bragged about the book: "It’s impossible to exaggerate the importance of this book about one of the most serious problems of our time: the worldwide abuse and exploitation of women. In addition to describing the injustices, Kristof and WuDunn show how concerned individuals everywhere are working effectively to empower women and help them overcome adversity. Wonderfully written and vividly descriptive, Half the Sky can and should galvanize support for reform on all levels. Inspiring as it is shocking, this book demands to be read."

In 2009 Kristof and WuDunn also wrote "Half the Sky: Turning Oppression into Opportunity for Women Worldwide", which also became a best seller. Inspiring!

Monday, October 24, 2011

Telethon for mine clearing

This Sunday we had the big NRK Telethon, or TV-aksjonen as we call it in Norwegian. This is a big fund raiser where people can either give donations online, or to the volunteers who show up at their door. I have participated in this several times, and it really is a nice project to be a part of. You meet a lot of nice people when you go around knocking on doors, most of them are happy to give some change to a good cause.

The organization they're raising funds for this year is The Norwegian People's Aid, and their work to clear mines. The countries in focus now are Vietnam, Laos, Sudan, Lebanon, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Tajikistan, but the organization has already done a lot of work in Cambodia. Cambodia is one of the most heavily mined countries in the world, both land mines and UXOs (unexploded ordinances) are a huge problem. These are mostly leftovers from the roughly 500 000 bombs that the US dropped in the late 1960 and early 1970s.

The Cambodian Mine Action Center believes that there are 4-6 million mines left in Cambodia, most of them in rural areas. From 2000-2005 about 850 people died each year because of landmines, since then the number has steadily decreased. One third of the casualties are children, who often starts playing with shiny things on the ground without realizing that is a lethal weapon. 40 000 people life as amputees in Cambodia, one of the highest rates in the world, and I saw many of these people begging in the streets of Phnom Penh. These are mostly victims of land mine explosions.

Here's an interesting clip (in Norwegian) about how different types of mines work. Hard to hear about at times, but I think it's important to know. You can also hear this year's telethon song "Field of fire", by the great band Big Bang.


Photo taken in Cambodia by the Norwegian People's Aid.

This year's telethon was the second best ever held, and it raised about $520,000. Not bad! Let's hope this money will save a lot of lives, and make children be able to run around in the fields of their villages without a care in the world. It's hard to put a price on a safe and peaceful childhood, it's something everyone in the world should get.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Media coverage

The media in Cambodia are now all concerned with the flooding in South East Asia, that has led Thai prime minister Yingluck Shinawatra to say that Bangkok might be swamped by the massive amounts of water.


In Norwegian media, this is not talked about a lot. It seems that we have two main news stories these days, one being the Nobel Peace Prize. It has been awarded to three very important, courageous women this year, hooray! I watched the documentary "Pray the devil back to hell" last year, and these women's struggle for peace in Liberia made a very strong impression on me (two of these women are this year's laureates). Now my friend Kimsor has informed me that this movie will be translated and dubbed into Khmer, which is wonderful, I hope many Cambodians can be as inspired as I was.


The other hot topic in Norwegian media is of a slightly different nature. A Danish hunter has shot Albin, the celebrity moose. He is called this because of the special color of his fur. Albin was first thought to be albino, but scientists now think that it just has the unusual color coincidentally.






Albin as we will remember him, proud and beige. He lived to be six years old (in moose years).






In 2009 there were hot rumours that Albin had gotten a girlfriend, the brown moose in the background. I have to point out that hese rumours were never confirmed.






The hunter Oddbjørn is sad and angry over the killing of Albin. Here he shows the last footage he took of him. Oddbjørn at least hopes that the Dane will donate Albin's body to a Norwegian museum, so that he can be mounted, displayed and remembered for generations to come.


The Danish hunter has received death threats from Norwegian moose enthusiasts (enmoosiasts?), and has gone underground.

Friday, October 7, 2011

Flooding

There are several flash floods going on in Cambodia these days, 164 people have died so far, 15 provinces are affected and 215 000 people have been displaced. It's the worst one they've had for a decade, in July 2000 there was a flood that killed 347 people, but there was a lot less damage to roads and rice paddies than there is now. Vietnam, Thailand, Laos and Pakistan are also struggling with the same problem.


Photo of a brave little kid in the middle of the flood in Cambodia

 
I have never previously worked with an enviroment project before the Let’s do it-project in Phnom Penh. But as so many others, I remember the earth quake and tsunami in South East Asia in 2004, and the focus it put on climate change and natural disasters. The Norwegian media focused mostly on Thailand, because this where most of the 84 deceased Norwegians had been on Christmas vacation when it struck. But where Thailand lost an estimated 8000 people, one thinks as many as 167 000 people lost their lives in Indonesia. 230 000 people altogether. In a small country like ours, everyone knew of someone who died. In my case it was a teacher at my elementary school, and her little daughter. I remember her being pregnant when I was still in school, and was very sad to hear these news when it happened.


Scary, scary photo of the tsunami in Thailand. Taken from Wikipedia.


A more recent event that has brought a lot of attention to natural disasters in the region (and nuclear power in general), is of course the earth quake and following tsunami east of Japan in March. It caused almost 16 000 deaths and hundreds of thousands of residents have been evacuated because of the meltdowns at the Fukushima nuclear plant.

When talking about global environmental issues in Cambodia, people were very concerned about the Phillipines. Greenpeace has used them as an example of one of the countries that suffers the most from man made climate change, with extreme weather occurrences such as floods, droughts, forest fires, land slides and an increase in tropical cyclones.

The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change issued a report in 2007 saying that the sea level could rise between 18 and 59 centimeters (7 to 23 inches) by century's end. Rises of just 10 centimeters (4 inches) could flood many South Seas islands and swamp large parts of Southeast Asia. The students I talked to in Cambodia were interested in these facts, recognizing that even though their country doesn't pollute a lot compared to the rest of the world, they are very vulnerable to these changes.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Siem Reap

I have traveled quite a bit in Europe and in Asia, and my favourite thing to see has rarely been famous buildings. Maybe because of the hype, the other tourists, the heat, the annoying guides, I’m not sure. I prefer walking the streets with no tourists, sitting in cafés where I can’t understand the menu and look at people going by. If I come across a tourist even in this setting, I’m often a bit irritated, as I’m sure they are too when they spot me. (Hey compadre, this café isn’t big enough for two pretend-locals!) Anyways, if you read about Cambodia on the internet, the one tourist sight everyone talks about is the Angkor Wat.

This is a temple outside Siem Reap, the largest and most famous one among the so called Angkorian temples. I will honestly admit that I didn’t have very high expectations of these sights when I ventured out on a three day trip to see them. The first one I saw was the Angkor Wat, and I was impressed by the size of it and the nice atmosphere there. But then came all the others. I was astonished by all this beauty, never before have physical buldings made such an impression on me. We had long tuktuk rides in between the temples, which were nice breaks to have in between all the stories and stone carvings. When I think back on it, it almost seem like one long, meditative journey through history and art :)

Angkor was the capital of the Khmer Empire until the 15th century, and was then most likely unpopulated for 300 years until French archaeologists re-discovered the area in 1860. In the meantime the jungle had been able to grow freely around the temples, and some places huge, 300 year old trees have grown straight through stone floors and walls. It’s fascinating! Monks usually wrote down important things on palm leafs through history, and these have mostly disappeared and perished. So the best historical sources we have today over the Khmer Empire, are the texts carved into the stone walls in the different temples. They’re mostly about the emperors at the time, and current wars. I will post some of my many photos from the temples here:



 Sunrise over Angkor Wat



Monkey by the Angkor Wat, holding on to her baby's tail. Cute!




The Bayon Temple



The Banteay Srei temple


Ta Prohm



Ta Prohm



These roots are 300 years old!



Beautiful colours



Martine taking a rest on a little tree



Making it up to the Pre Rup temple in time for the sunset, nice and sweaty



Amazing evening sky over Pre Rup



Oh, how I will miss the palm trees


Wednesday, September 28, 2011

A good project

Last fall I took a very interesting course at my university, called ”Environment and development”. The class was a nice contrast to my courses in economics! We of course talked a lot about environment and pollution, but also fundemental questions like what our relationship to nature really is, and what responsibility we have towards it. Does nature have a value in itself, or just through how it can help people? We also talked about “development”. The word naturally just means a change, or a progress of some sort. But we often use it synonymously with industrialization, increased production and GDP, increased “standard of living”. Maybe at any cost? So when I went to Cambodia, I was excited over seeing a so called developing country up close. How NGOs did their work, what kind of aid proved to be most successful.

Before going, I learnt that my very cool doctor had actually worked there for some time with her husband. They’re both doctors, and they decided to do something completely different for a few months, in a whole new place. They started an initiative where they went around in boats to the people in the floating villages on the Tonle Sap, and provided medical care to the people who needed it. Needless to say, it was normally very hard for these villagers to go to a medical institution for help. One year later she was very happy and proud to hear that the project had continued without them, now operated by local Cambodian doctors. I learnt that a big problem with these initiatives started by foreigners, is that they’re not sustainable for when they leave. They might stay for a few months or a year, and then the locals don’t have the compentence or the funding to continue the project. And worse, sometimes the locals have learnt to depend on the temporary projects, and might suffer when it suddenly disappears.

I met a nice guy who worked for an NGO called BB2C, they had project on water pumps used in agriculture. About 85 % of the population are farmers, so this is a very important focus area in Cambodia. They struggle to grow crops during the dry season, november – may, so they import a lot of fruits and vegetables from Vietnam, and the prices are extra high during this time of the year. Their idea was to follow the model of a project in Kenya called KickStart. They would buy efficient, environmental friendly water pumps that were easy to operate, and that were simple to maintain and repair. The farmers could use the pumps to water their fields efficiently, get higher yield and even grow crops outside the rainy season. The NGO first tried giving away a certain number of pumps as a trial project, with the criteria that the farmers who received them wanted to use them, and had access to water that could be pumped up.

One year later the NGO returned to see what results the farmers had gotten with the pumps. They were surprised to find that only a very small amount of the pumps were still in use, most of them stood covered in dust and almost untouched. When trying to find out why the farmers weren’t using the pumps, even though they had gotten the training and had been guaranteed larger crops if they did use them, the reasons were varied. Some had found it too complicated, and given up. Some weren’t motivated after all to change the way they worked on their land. Some didn’t have as good access to water as they had claimed to have. The project was deemed pretty unsuccesful, and they decided to sell the pumps instead of just giving them away.

They sold them for less than the production cost, I believe for about 100 dollars, and they went to small villages to give training in how to use them and fix them. Often families or neighbourhoods would buy a pump together, so that more people would benefit from the purchase. One year later, the NGO was happy to see that basically all the pumps were in use, and the farmers had all gotten very good results and increased incomes. If something was wrong with the pump, you could take it apart with your hands without using tools, and they were able to fix it themselves. The pump didn’t need electricity or gasoline to run, so it was a long-term environmentally sustainable solution. I thought this was an interesting story! When the farmers and the communities decided for themselves to invest some money in the pump, they felt a full ownership and responsibilty for the project. I bet they also got a great feeling of accomplishment  when they made this investment work, and could harvest a larger crop for themselves and their families. Inspiring.


Photo from the NGO's website.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Summer, still


The other day I felt it. For maybe the first time in Norway this year, that special summer feeling. The day before I had spent a very nice evening at a friend's summer house in Moss, we had taken a swim in the lovely ocean water, and eaten shrimps with white bread, lemon and mayonnaise, a traditional summer dish in Norway. When the night got cooler we gathered around an outside fireplace and drank red wine under wool blankets. A wonderful evening. But the next day I was just walking along the street on my way to a little shop, waiting for my friend to pick me up in her car and taking me to the train station. The sun was warming me, I heard a car going by somewhere far away, and there were hardly any other people around. I felt a remarkable calm, and the biggest concern I had on my mind, was whether or not I would have time to buy an ice cream in the shop before my friend arrived.

It struck me that this is the true wonder of the summer holiday, when you are able to be so blank, to have so few concerns, and just enjoy the moment. This was very easy when I was a child, but has become more difficult the older I have gotten. Not that I'm always super worried about things, but I can rarely say that I don't have any concerns at all. Especially not this summer, which has been a sad one for Norway.

Cambodia now seems very far away. The streets, the restaurants, my apartment. Sitting on my friend Dar's motor bike. I wasn't that impressed by the book "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance", which I tried reading a few months back, but I liked how he talked about riding a motor cycle:

On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming. That concrete whizzing by five inches below your foot is the real thing, the same stuff you walk on, it's right there, so blurred you can't focus on it, yet you can put your foot down and touch it anytime, and the whole thing, the whole experience, is never removed from immediate consciousness.

Just before leaving Cambodia, I got the sweetest Facebook message from my friend:

"Hey, are you still in Cambodia? I'm in the Phillippines, alone and crying! No, just kidding. No, not really. Maybe I can come visit you?"

I sent her my warmest invitation to The Kingdom of Wonder (or the kingdom of water, as my friend calls it in the rainy season), but she didn't end up having the time to come. It still made me think of how lucky I am to have friends in different parts of the world. The cost of the plane ticket will always be an obstacle, but when you have a friend on the other side of the journey, travelling becomes so much easier. Almost as if they were just on the other side of a fence in a field. Jump over, and come see my world.

I saw this photo that Alisa took of me and Indre, the day Indre left Cambodia.



We're not far from the Monument of Indepence.  Im not sure why I like this photo so much. It's crooked and colourful, just like Phnom Penh. Maybe because it already looks a bit old. It's as if I can imagine myself many years from now, looking at this photograph and remembering the day. This is the person I was, May 24th 2011. This was my face, my arms, my legs. The worn-out shoes that I had used every day for five months, when I wasn't barefoot in white sand. The bag I bought at the Tuoltompuong market. These were the clouds, the light, the scorching sun. This was the tan girl I worked with and laughed with and ate with in our gloomy little office. These were the streets, the bikes, the puddles that made up Phnom Penh.

The disaster July 22nd


July 22nd I had been home from Cambodia a bit more than a week. I was walking in the center of Oslo with my good friend Mari, who was a bit annoyed with me because I had been late to meet her. We were passing the National Theatre, headed up to Egertorget, when the bomb went off.

The biggest bang we had ever heard, we held our ears and were very startled. It sounded like it came from exactly where we were headed. Some people around us just stood and stared towards where the sound came from, others laughed it off and continued on their way, some people looked scared and started running. My friend thought it had been a gas explosion or some sort of accident, but we decided to go home to her parents' house not far from the town center. Mari read the news on her iPhone, and we soon learned that the explosion had been next to the government's head office. It didn't seem likely that it could have been an accident. The destruction was huge, it said, and we could only imagine how many people could have died. We were welcomed by Mari's parents, who were just as shocked and sad as we were. Still I was very happy to be able to be there, seeing that my own family was on vacation in France. They were so sweet to us, preparing a nice lunch and not constantly watching the news. I didn't want to see it or hear it. I felt like my country was breaking in front of my eyes. And then the news about the shooting came.

I don't know how common this is in other countries, but in Norway all the big political parties have youth organizations. These organizations work to involve youth in politics, and to influence their "mother party" and decisions made in the parliament. They all have camps during the summer. The biggest party in government now is the Labour Party, and their youth organization is AUF. When I was in high school I was a member of SU, the youth organization of the Socialistic Left Party, and we would bump into AUF-people on different occasions in the political scene. We always saw them as a bit too far to the right, but they were cool people and good to discuss politics with. July 22nd AUF had their summer camp on the island Utøya, and SU was supposed to have their camp a few days after.

The strange message came from the news, that there were some shots being fired at Utøya. We tried to stay calm, thinking that it was nothing serious. But unfortunately, the news just became worse every minute. Kids as young as 14 years old had swum across the freezing waters from Utøya, where the currents are very strong, and talked about a massacre happening on the island. Maybe as many as 20-30 kids had been shot, they said. There were about 600 people on the island, and some were swimming for their lives, others were rescued in boats, a lot tried to hide in the woods.

At first there were two different jihadist groups who claimed responsibility for what had happened. My friend and I had problems believing this. Jihadists targeting AUF, youth politicians? It didn't make sense for a second. What later turned out to have happened was that an ethnically Norwegian man, with blond hair and blue eyes and the whole Norwegian package, stood behind everything. First he drove the car bomb into town, then he went to Utøya dressed as a police man, with an automatic rifle. When he came to the island he said that he had important messages to give in regards to the bomb in Oslo, and asked the kids to gather around him. Then he started shooting people.

AUF had hired a police man in plain clothing as security. His son was with him, so he threw him behind a rock to protect him, and then tried to stop the murder. He was shot dead, but his son survived. All together 69 people were killed on the island, mostly teenagers, the youngest ones 14 years old. Many are still badly hurt, some will have permanent physical injuries, and many will be psychologically traumatized. 8 people died in the explosion in Oslo.

When the news first broke about Utøya, I went on Facebook to see what people wrote. Hoping that no one I knew was at the island. Two friends of mine had younger siblings there, but they fortunately came home safe. Then I saw the status update of Håvard, who I had studied economics with. He said "We're alive and hiding." And that's the last thing we heard from him. 21 years old. I didn't know Håvard well, just through the studies and a student trip to Vietnam. But he was a very nice guy, passionate about everything he talked about, socially inclusive, very insightful when it came to politics, had a laughter that made you want to smile as well.

My first impression of him I got when he walked around in a blue t-shirt encouraging people to vote at the church elections in 2009, meaning the elected boards of the parishes. I later found out that he was openly gay, and wanted a church that had room for everyone. A very noble cause that takes a lot of courage and patience to fight for. He was the leader of Oslo AUF, and he thought inclusion of all groups in society was very important. He for instance wanted religious signs such as hijabs to be legal to wear if you're a judge in court, to prevent exclusion of ethnic minorities in our legal system.

To be honest, I haven't wanted to read so much about the killer. I don't even want to write his name here, it's all over the internet anyway. But he is a 32 year old guy from more or less the same part of Oslo as I am, raised in a seemingly normal family and social setting. As far as I've understood he is deeply Christian, and his political stand is extreme right. He was against the multicultural society (very hostile towards Islam), and wanted to punish the biggest ruling political party for making Norway into one. By going after the youth party, he also wanted to kill tomorrow's young leaders. The most tolerant and open minded of them all, people like Håvard.

There was recently an article about Håvard in the paper, where his friends told how brave he had been during the shooting. First he had gone in to a building to warn a group of people that there was a killer outside. Then a girl jumped out of the window and broken her ankle, and he carried her to some bushes where she could safely hide. He then found another group of people who were scared and hiding, and he held them and comforted them and calmed them down. Then he left them, and lost his life. No one can expect people to react rationally and selflessly to such dramatic events, and I hope the people who survived won't feel like they did something wrong by prioritizing saving their own lives. But it also makes me tear up to think about Håvard's actions, that he saved a girl's life even though he must have been terrified himself. I hope this can be a small consolation for his family, in the middle of all the grief.